The Earliest Mole Sauce

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Why wouldn’t the cooks of the prehistoric, ash-covered village of Cerén 
in El Salvador have developed sauces to serve over meats and vegetables? 
After all, there is evidence that curry mixtures were in existence 
thousands of years ago in what is now India, and we have to assume that 
Native Americans experimented with all available ingredients. Perhaps 
this mole sauce was served over stewed duck meat, as ducks were one of 
the domesticated meat sources of the Cerén villagers.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons pumpkin or squash seeds (pepitas)
4 tomatillos, husks removed
1 tomato, roasted and peeled
1/2 teaspoon chile seeds, from dried chile pods
1 corn tortilla, torn into pieces
2 tablespoons red chile powder, such as New Mexican, guajillo, or Chimayó
1 teaspoon annatto seeds, or substitute achiote paste
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 1/2 cups chicken broth
1 ounce Mexican chocolate; or substitute bittersweet chocolate

Instructions

Heat a heavy skillet over high heat; add the pumpkin seeds, and 
dry-roast until the seeds start to pop. Shake the skillet once they 
start to pop, continuing until they turn golden, about 3 to 5 minutes. 
Take care that they don’t darken and remove from the pan to cool 
completely. Place the seeds in a spice mill or coffee grinder and 
process to a fine powder.
Put the pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, tomato, chile seeds, tortilla, chile 
powder, and annatto or achiote in a blender or food processor and 
process, using just enough broth to form a paste.
Reheat the skillet over medium heat, add the oil, and when hot, add the 
paste. Fry the paste, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 4 minutes.
Whisk in the remaining chicken broth and the chocolate, and cook, 
stirring constantly, until thickened to desired consistency. If the 
sauce becomes too thick, thin with either broth or water.

Salsa Casera (Homemade Chiltepín Sauce)

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This diabolically hot sauce is also called pasta de chiltepín (chiltepín 
paste). It is used in soups and stews and to fire up machaca, eggs, 
tacos, tostadas, and beans. This is the exact recipe prepared in the 
home of my friend, Josefina Durán, in Cumpas, Sonora. Note: This recipe 
requires advance preparation.

Ingredients

2 cups chiltepíns (or other small, hot chiles)
8 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
1 teaspoon coriander seed
1 cup water
1 cup cider vinegar

Instructions

Combine all ingredients in a blender and puree on high speed for 3 to 4 
minutes. Refrigerate for one day to blend the flavors. It keeps 
indefinitely in the refrigerator.

Salsa Chile de Árbol (Chile de Årbol Sauce)

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This is the sauce that commonly is bottled in liquor bottles and sold in 
the mercados and at roadside stands in central and northern Mexico. It 
is sprinkled over nearly any snack food, from tacos to tostadas.

Ingredients

30 chiles de árbol, seeds ands stems removed
Water
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
3 cloves garlic
1 cup cider vinegar
3/4 cup water

Instructions

Soak the chiles in the water until softened, about a half hour.
Toast the sesame seeds and pumpkin seeds in a skillet until they pop and 
are brown. Combine the seeds with the drained chiles and the remaining 
ingredients and puree for about 3 minutes. Strain the mixture through a 
sieve and bottle. It will keep for months in the refrigerator.

Salsa de Ají (Ecuadorean Fresh Chile Sauce)

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This is a basic but classic Latin American salsa recipe collected in 
Ecuador. Although this recipe calls for the use of an electric blender, 
one can follow the traditional method of using a mortar and pestle. 
Ecuadorians are very fond of putting beans in their salsa. The most 
popular beans are the lupini, which are large white beans about the size 
of lima beans. Just add the cooked beans directly to the salsa. Use this 
salsa as a dip for chips or as a topping for grilled meats.

Ingredients

2 large tomatoes, seeds removed, finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
4 large, fresh ají chiles, seeds and stems removed, chopped or 
substitute yellow wax hot or jalapeño
1/2 cup water
Salt to taste

Instructions

Combine the tomatoes, onion, and cilantro in a bowl.
Place the chiles, water, and 3 tablespoons of the tomato and onion 
mixture in a blender or processor and puree until smooth.
Add the chile puree to the remaining tomato mixture and mix well. Salt 
to taste.

Miguel’s Peruvian Ají Sauce

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I grow a lot of Peruvian ají chiles in my garden every year, and I 
always put aside a large bag of them to take to Miguel, our computer 
wizard friend from Peru. On my second or third trip to Miguel's (it was 
a bumper harvest of chiles), he was having a late lunch with this ají 
sauce over his rice.

Ingredients

1/2 cup olive oil
4 or more fresh ají chiles, seeds and stems removed, minced, or 
substitute jalapeños
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Instructions

Heat the oil in a small skillet, and when it's hot, add the chiles and 
the garlic, lower the heat, and stir constantly to avoid burning the 
garlic. Add the remaining ingredients and stir. Simmer for ten minutes 
and then serve warm over rice or pasta.