New Mexico Red Chile sauce

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This is my version of New Mexico’s famous red chile sauce. Mixed with shredded pork, it is used as a tamale filling, but it is also ladled over the tamales as well as enchiladas, huevos rancheros, breakfast burritos, stuffed sopaipillas, chiles rellenos and almost anything else you can think of. You may not need four cups of the sauce for your recipe, but you might as well make the whole batch; freeze extra portions in small resealable plastic containers.

Ingredients

•    24 dried red New Mexico chile pods
•    5 cups beef stock, chicken stock or water
•    2 tablespoons bacon grease, lard or vegetable oil
•    2 cloves garlic, minced
•    2 tablespoons flour
•    1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
•    Salt, to taste
•    1 teaspoon honey, or to taste (optional)

Instructions

In a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, toast the chiles on both sides (you’ll have to do this in batches) until they soften slightly and become aromatic. When the chiles are cool enough to handle, remove the stems and seeds.

Transfer the chiles to a deep saucepan and pour over them about 4 cups water (or enough to just barely cover. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the chiles to rest, about 15 minutes.

Working in batches, puree the chiles with their soaking liquid.

In the cast-iron skillet, over medium heat, melt the bacon grease. Add the garlic and flour and cook, stirring, until the mixture becomes golden. Add the pureed chiles and stir quickly while the sauce bubbles and spatters. Reduce the heat, add the oregano and simmer 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt. If the sauce is a little bitter, mellow it with the honey.

Basic Masa Dough

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Masa corn makes up the part of the tamale that surrounds the meat filling.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups freshly ground masa for tamales or 3 cups masa harina

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

  • 1 cup fresh lard, at room temperature

  • 1 1/2 cups homemade or low-sodium chicken stock

Instructions

If you’re using masa harina, pour it into a bowl and add 2 cups warm water. Work the mixture into a dough with your hands and then set it aside to rest for about 15 minutes.

Add the lard to the workbowl of a standing mixer fixed with the whisk attachment (or use a regular hand mixer in a large bowl) and beat it together with the salt and baking powder until light and fluffy.

If you’re using a standing mixer, switch to the paddle attachment. While beating, add the reconstituted (or freshly ground) masa by handfuls into the workbowl. Add the stock and beat until combined. Taste the mixture and add salt if necessary.

Continue beating until the masa is light and fluffy, 15 or 20 minutes. The masa is ready when a grape-sized ball of dough floats in a glass of cold water. If the dough sinks continue beating 5 minutes longer, then test it again.


Pork and red chile Tamales

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These are some of the most common tamales in the Southwest. They can be found in restaurants, cafes and in the coolers toted by strolling vendors. Everybody loves them, so make a bunch and freeze any leftovers. This recipe makes enough pork filling to make another batch of tamales, but you can always just use the extra pork for burritos.

Ingredients

•    1 recipe Basic Masa (recipe follows)
•    2 1/2 pounds boneless pork butt, trimmed of excess fat
•    6 cloves garlic, peeled
•    1 teaspoon black peppercorns
•    2 bay leaves
•    1 teaspoon salt
•    1 recipe New Mexico Red Chile Sauce (recipe follows)
•    At least 36 softened corn husks, plus 36 strips for tying

Instructions

Arrange the pork butt in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed stockpot. Add the garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves and salt. Pour over it enough cold water to cover by several inches. Turn the heat to high and bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, about 2 hours.

Transfer the pork to a cutting board and allow it to rest 20 minutes. Using 2 forks, shred the meat. In a bowl, combine 2 cups of the shredded pork with enough red chile sauce to thoroughly moisten the meat.

To assemble the tamales, spread about 1/3 cup dough onto the center of each corn husk. Spoon several tablespoons of the shredded pork filling down the center of the dough. Fold and tie the tamale; repeat with the remaining ingredients and husks.

Steam the tamales for 1 hour and serve with the remaining New Mexico Red Chile Sauce.

Basic Brisket

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Cooking brisket is not something done after coming home from work but is a great weekend cooking project. The brisket could be cooked ahead and reheated. Like most barbecue recipes it is difficult to predict how long a brisket needs to cook.  It’s done when it’s done. This recipe requires advanced preparation.

Ingredients

1 (4 1/2- to 6-pound) beef brisket flat
1 gallon water
1 cup white vinegar
1/2 to 1 cup prepared yellow mustard
Brisket rub (see above)
Brisket mop (see above)
4 cups hickory chips

Instructions

Soak the brisket in one gallon of cold water mixed with one cup of white vinegar for 20 minutes. Rinse the brisket with cold water and pat dry. Brush with prepared mustard. Liberally apply the rub. Wrap the brisket in food film and refrigerate overnight. Remove the brisket from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature, about an hour. At the same time, soak the hickory chips in water for an hour.

Prepare the smoker or grill for indirect cooking. If you are using a kettle-style grill, start 20 briquettes in a charcoal chimney. When the coals are ash-covered, place them on one side of the charcoal grate. Place a disposable aluminum casserole or roasting pan on the opposite side. Add a handful of drained chips to the briquettes. Cover the grill. When a good smoke develops and the temperature stabilizes around 225°F, place the brisket on the cooking grate on the side opposite from the charcoal. Cover the grill and maintain a temperature of 210 to 225°F Smoke the brisket for three hours adding additional briquettes and wood chips as needed. Continue slow cooking an additional two to three hours, mopping and turning every hour.

After five to six hours of cooking, wrap the brisket in double sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil, add 1/2 cup of the mop, tightly seal and return to grill for another hour or so, keeping the temperature at 225°F. (Paul Kirk, Ph.B., the Kansas City “Baron of Barbecue” and author of numerous barbecue books, calls this method the “Texas crutch” and says it steams the brisket. He doesn’t recommend foiling.)

When the brisket reaches an internal temperature of 180°F, remove the foil and place the brisket back on the grill to finish cooking to an internal temperature of 185°F. About 30 minutes before serving paint the brisket with finishing sauce, if desired.

Remove the brisket from the cooker and let it rest for 10 minutes before slicing against the grain.

Brisket Mop

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Mops are liquids containing oil and vinegar that are “mopped” onto meats during cooking. Allow the brisket to cook for about three hours then apply this mop every hour.

Ingredients

  • 1 (12-ounce) bottle beer
  • 1 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 yellow onion, finely diced (about 1 cup)
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 2 tablespoons Brisket Rub

Instructions

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients until blended.