The vegetable sold as “morning glory” in stores like Silom is sometimes called “water spinach”—the leaves are slightly bitter, but taste absolutely perfect with a handful of burning red Thai chiles. The exact quantity of each ingredient in this dish is somewhat variable; I like to use approximately the proportions given here, but Sanamluang’s version is a little more salty and less spicy. I’m not sure where the name comes from, but perhaps the red chiles have something to do with it.

Ingredients

• 1/2 to 1 pound morning glory (found in Asian markets)

• 2 tablespoons cooking oil

• 2 cloves garlic, crushed

• 4 to 8 bright red Thai chiles, chopped finely

• 1 teaspoon fermented whole soybean sauce

• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce

• 1 tablespoon fish sauce

• 1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

Instructions

Rinse the morning glory and trim the thick stems. Leave water clinging to the leaves. Heat the oil in a wok over high flame until it begins to smoke. Add garlic and chiles and cook for just a second, then add the morning glory and Thai chiles. Add the fermented soybean sauce and keep the ingredients moving over the highest heat possible for two to three minutes more. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce and sugar, and cook for another few seconds.

Serve with fresh white rice.

It may seem like cheating, but I like to use canned curry paste for this dish since it avoids the work of chopping and pounding that homemade curry paste involves. This dish takes its name from the northern Malaysian port city, but in Thailand the sauce is creamier and richer than the dry dark curries popular there.

Ingredients

• 3 cups coconut milk

• 2 tablespoons coconut cream

• 1 tablespoon cooking oil

• 1/4 cup Penang curry paste

• 1 pound lean beef sliced across the grain into strips approximately 1/4-inch wide

• 4 kaffir lime leaves, sliced into thin strips

• 3 to 8 Thai chiles (bird’s eye), sliced thinly

Instructions

To separate the coconut milk and cream, open a can of coconut milk, scoop the cream off the top and reserve.

Heat the oil in a wok or small saucepan over high heat. Add the curry paste and fry for one minute. Add 1/2 cup of the coconut milk and boil for another four minutes or until thickened. Add beef strips and cook until nearly done, then add the remaining coconut milk. Boil together until thickened slightly. Before serving, swirl coconut cream into the curry and garnish with lime leaves and sliced chiles. Serve with fresh white rice.

Thanks to Arthur Pais for this recipe. Arthur, born and raised in Madras, India, knows his region and certainly knows his food. Madras is known for its fiery food and excellent cuisine, and Arthur says that every home has at least two varieties of chile preserves in the pantry at all times. “Over many front doors hang a string of green chiles to ward off the evil eye,” he noted. This is an excellent accompaniment to grilled salmon.

Ingredients

• 6 serrano chiles, stems and seeds removed, minced

• 3 large ripe mangoes, peeled and diced

• 1/2 onion, minced

• 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 tablespoon mustard seeds

• 1 teaspoon turmeric powder

• Salt to taste

Instructions

In a bowl, combine the chiles, mangoes, and onion. Crush the fenugreek seeds into a coarse powder and add it to the mango mixture.

Heat the oil in a skillet and add the mustard seeds. When they begin to pop, remove them from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Add the turmeric, salt and the chile-mango mixture. Mix well and serve with grilled salmon.

This smoked salmon dip is delicious accompanied by crackers, tortilla chips, or thin slices of dark rye bread. The piquant taste of pepperoncini adds a unique zest.

Ingredients

• 8 ounces smoked Alaska salmon

• 16 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

• 1/2 cup red onion, minced

• 3/4 cup pepperoncini, diced

• 2 tablespoons liquid from pepperoncini jar (or substitute lemon juice)

• 1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce

• 2 tablespoons fresh dill (or substitute 2 teaspoons dried)

Instructions

In a medium mixing bowl, shred the smoked salmon. Add the remaining ingredients and stir mixture with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon until everything is well combined. Place the dip in a bowl and serve it with bread or crackers.

This recipe combines crisp romaine lettuce with a spicy Caesar dressing, Parmesan cheese, and bite-sized chunks of grilled salmon. A great way to use up barbecue leftovers! Homemade croutons are a nice touch, but if you’re short on time, you may substitute storebought.

Note: this recipe contains a small amount of raw egg.

Ingredients

For the Croutons:

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

• 2 cups French bread, cubed

For the Dressing:

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

• 1 egg yolk (optional)

• 4 cloves garlic, crushed

• 2 teaspoons anchovy paste or 4 anchovy fillets, minced fine

• 2 teaspoons hot sauce

• 1 teaspoon capers

• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

For the Salad:

• 1 head romaine lettuce, washed and torn into medium-sized pieces

• Croutons (see above)

• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

• Dressing (see above)

• 12 ounces grilled or blacked salmon, cut into bite-sized pieces

• Lemon wedges

• Freshly ground black pepper (if desired)

Instructions

To prepare the croutons, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. In a medium (2-to 4-quart) skillet, heat the butter, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Toss this mixture with the bread cubes in a mixing bowl. Place the bread cubes on a baking tray and bake them until they are golden brown (about 12 to 15 minutes), tossing the croutons with a metal spatula occasionally.

To prepare the dressing, combine the first 7 ingredients (lemon juice through capers) in a blender or food processor. Process the mixture until it is completely smooth. Add the olive oil in small increments to ensure the oil becomes fully incorporated into the dressing.

To assemble the salad, place the romaine, croutons, and Parmesan cheese in a large salad bowl. Drizzle in half of the dressing and mix well. Add enough of the remaining dressing to fully coat the lettuce. Gently stir in the salmon. Serve with lemon wedges, freshly ground black pepper, and extra Parmesan cheese.