The original version of this recipe was first published in 1880. According to John Thorne, “This may be the earliest printed recipe for chili con carne and it is surprisingly authentic, save for the suspect addition of `espagnole,’ a white sauce seasoned with ham, carrot, onion, celery, and clove.” Mrs. Owen wrote, incorrectly: “This might be called the national dish of Mexico. Literally, it means `pepper with meat,’ and when prepared to suit the taste of the average Mexican, is not misnamed.” We have revised the recipe to add ingredient amounts, which, in the recipe-writing fashion of the day, Mrs. Owen omitted. We have retained most of Mrs. Owen’s original instructions.

Ingredients

• 2 pounds lean beef, cut into ½ -inch cubes

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 2 medium onions, chopped

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1 tablespoon flour

• Beef stock to cover

• 2 tablespoons white sauce (espagnole–see Joy of Cooking)

• 1 teaspoon ground Mexican oregano

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• 1 teaspoon ground coriander

• 5 New Mexican red chiles, seeds and stems removed

• Water

• Salt to taste

Instructions

Take the lean beef and put to cook with a little oil. When well braised, add the onions, a clove of garlic chopped fine and one tablespoon flour. Mix and cover with water or stock and two tablespoons espagnole, 1 teaspoon each of ground oregano, comino (cumin), and coriander. Take the dried whole peppers and remove the seeds, cover with water and put to boil. When thoroughly cooked (soft) pass through a fine strainer. Add sufficient puree to the stew to make it good and hot, and salt to taste.

To be served with a border of Mexican beans (frijoles), well cooked in salted water and refried.

This recipe hails from 1896. For reasons of authenticity, we have not altered the original wording. The recipe is given “per soldier.”

Ingredients

• 1 beefsteak (round)

• 1 tablespoon hot drippings

• 1 cup boiling water

• 2 tablespoons rice

• 2 large dried red chile pods

• 1 cup boiling water

• Flour

• Salt

• Onion (optional)

Instructions

Cut steak in small pieces. Put in frying pan with hot drippings, cup of hot water, and rice. Cover closely and cook slowly until tender. Remove seeds and parts of veins from chile pods. Cover with second cup of boiling water and let stand until cool. Then squeeze them in the hand until the water is thick and red. If not thick enough, add a little flour. Season with salt and a little onion, if desired. Pour sauce over meat-rice mixture and serve very hot.

According to legend, this is one of the Chili Queen’s original recipes. Some changes have been made in order to take advantage of modern ingredients. Note the heavy use of cumin and oregano.

Ingredients

• Flour for dredging

• 2 pounds beef shoulder, cut into ½ -inch cubes

• 1 pound pork shoulder, cut into ½ -inch cubes

• 1/4 cup suet

• 1/4 cup pork fat

• 3 medium onions, chopped

• 6 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 quart water

• 4 ancho chiles, seeds and stems removed, rehydrated and chopped fine

• 1 serrano chile, seeds and stems removed, chopped fine

• 6 dried red New Mexican chiles, seeds and stems removed, reydrated and chopped fine

• 1 tablespoon freshly ground cumin

• 2 tablespoons dried Mexican oregano

• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Lightly flour the beef and pork cubes. In a large pot, quickly fry the meat in the suet and pork fat, stirring often. Add the onions and garlic and saute until they are tender and limp. Remove all pieces of fat. Add the water to the mixture and simmer for 1 hour.

Grind the chiles in a molcajete or blender. Add to the meat mixture. Add the remaining ingredients, cover and simmer for an additional 2 hours. Skim off any fat that rises, and serve.

This thick and hearty stew from Durango, one of the northern states, is another Mexican dish that closely resembles chili con carne. A very similar recipe, carne guisada, is given by Jim Peyton in his book, El Norte: The Cuisine of Northern Mexico. We use pork in our version, but beef (or even shredded beef) can be used.

Ingredients

• 8 ancho chiles, seeds and stems removed

• 1 cup water

• 2 to 3 pounds pork, cut into ½ -inch cubes

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 2 teaspoons flour

• 2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped

• 2 to 3 cups beef stock

• 1/4 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

In a pan, cover the chiles with water and simmer for 15 minutes until they are soft. Puree them in a blender along with the water until smooth.

In another pan, brown the pork in the oil. Add the onion and garlic and saute until soft. Add the flour and quickly brown, taking care that it does not burn. Add the chile puree and tomatoes, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Add the beef stock and oregano. Cover the pan and simmer until the meat is tender, about 1 ½ hours. (The meat should be tender and the gravy quite soupy.)

Before serving, stir in the lemon juice.