The Earliest Mole Sauce

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Why wouldn’t the cooks of the prehistoric, ash-covered village of Cerén 
in El Salvador have developed sauces to serve over meats and vegetables? 
After all, there is evidence that curry mixtures were in existence 
thousands of years ago in what is now India, and we have to assume that 
Native Americans experimented with all available ingredients. Perhaps 
this mole sauce was served over stewed duck meat, as ducks were one of 
the domesticated meat sources of the Cerén villagers.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons pumpkin or squash seeds (pepitas)
4 tomatillos, husks removed
1 tomato, roasted and peeled
1/2 teaspoon chile seeds, from dried chile pods
1 corn tortilla, torn into pieces
2 tablespoons red chile powder, such as New Mexican, guajillo, or Chimayó
1 teaspoon annatto seeds, or substitute achiote paste
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 1/2 cups chicken broth
1 ounce Mexican chocolate; or substitute bittersweet chocolate

Instructions

Heat a heavy skillet over high heat; add the pumpkin seeds, and 
dry-roast until the seeds start to pop. Shake the skillet once they 
start to pop, continuing until they turn golden, about 3 to 5 minutes. 
Take care that they don’t darken and remove from the pan to cool 
completely. Place the seeds in a spice mill or coffee grinder and 
process to a fine powder.
Put the pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, tomato, chile seeds, tortilla, chile 
powder, and annatto or achiote in a blender or food processor and 
process, using just enough broth to form a paste.
Reheat the skillet over medium heat, add the oil, and when hot, add the 
paste. Fry the paste, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 4 minutes.
Whisk in the remaining chicken broth and the chocolate, and cook, 
stirring constantly, until thickened to desired consistency. If the 
sauce becomes too thick, thin with either broth or water.

Guasacaca (Barbecue Sauce from Venezuela)

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This is by far the most unusual barbecue sauce in Latin America. Because 
it contains fresh avocados, it must be used immediately and cannot be 
stored. Use it to marinate and/or baste grilled or barbecued shrimp, 
beef slices, or chicken.

Ingredients

1 cup minced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 habanero chile, seeds and stem removed, minced, or substitute 2 jalapeños
1 large ripe avocado, peeled and pit removed
2 cups peeled and chopped ripe tomatoes
1 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar or substitute lime juice
1 teaspoon prepared mustard
2 tablespoons minced parsley (Italian preferred)
Salt to taste

Instructions

With a mortar and pestle, mash the onion, garlic, chile, avocado, and 
tomatoes into a paste (this may need to be done in batches). Add the 
remaining ingredients and blend well with a fork.

Salsa Criolla (Creole Barbecue Sauce)

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There are many variations on this Creole sauce from Argentina, but this 
is my favorite. It is served with grilled, roasted, or barbecued meats, 
especially matambre. Variation: Add 1 bell pepper and 1 jalapeño, both 
seeded and minced.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons ají chile powder or substitute New Mexican red chile powder
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 onions, minced
3 ripe tomatoes, chopped fine
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
Salt to taste

Instructions

Combine the chile powder and the mustard with a little vinegar to make a 
paste. Add the rest of the vinegar and the olive oil and beat with a 
whisk. Add the remaining ingredients, stir well, and allow to sit for 2 
hours to blend the flavors.

Môlho de Churrasco (Brazilian Barbecue Sauce)

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Brazilian barbecues are justly famous, and this sauce can be used for 
basting during the slow cooking process. Feel free to use it for 
American-style barbecues as well.

Ingredients

8 dried malagueta chiles, seeds and stems removed, crushed, or 
substitute piquin or Thai chiles
3 cups vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small onion, minced
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley
1 teaspoon crushed rosemary
2 teaspoons minced fresh basil leaves
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons minced fresh marjoram or oregano leaves

Instructions

Combine all ingredients in a glass jar, cover, and shake well. Let stand 
for at least two hours to blend the flavors. Store in a refrigerator 
until ready to use.

Chimichurri (Hot Vinegar-Parsley Sauce)

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There is a minor debate about whether or not this Argentinian sauce 
should contain chile peppers. As usual, there is no real answer because 
cooks tend to add them or not, according to taste. This sauce is served 
with broiled, roasted, or grilled meat and poultry.

Ingredients

1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons ají chile powder, or substitute New Mexican red chile powder
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon crushed black peppercorns
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 bay leaf, crushed
1/4 cup minced parsley (or substitute Italian parsley)
Salt to taste

Instructions

Combine the olive oil and vinegar in a bowl and whip with a whisk. Stir 
in the remaining ingredients, mix thoroughly, and allow to sit for 2 
hours to blend the flavors.