Paprika Fish Soup

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Sometimes called “the bouillabaisse of Hungary,” Paprika Fish Soup is simplicity itself. It originated centuries ago with the fishermen who cooked it in big metal pots over campfires on the embankments of Hungary’s great rivers, including the Danube. In Hungary this fish soup often contains several kinds of local fresh fish—carp, catfish, sterlet, pike, perch, bream, whatever is available as the catch of the day.

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds freshwater fish filets or 3 pounds whole freshwater fish (preferably a mixture of 2 or 3 kinds of fish)

  • 2 medium onions, sliced into very thin rounds

  • 3 tablespoons mild Hungarian paprika (or 2 tablespoons mild paprika and 1 tablespoon hot paprika)

  • 2 to 3 crushed dried cherry peppers (or 1 to 2 tablespoons crushed dried red pepper flakes)

  • 1 tablespoon salt

  • Water

Instructions

If using fish filets (fresh or frozen/thawed), wash them under cold water and set aside. If using whole fish, clean and eviscerate them, then cut the fish into 3-inch chunks. Save the heads and tails to add to the cooking pot for flavor.

Put a layer of sliced onions on the bottom of a large (6-quart) stockpot. Add a layer of fish and sprinkle it with some of the paprika, crushed cherry peppers or pepper flakes, and salt. Continue making layers of onion, fish, and spices until all of the ingredients are in the pot. Add enough cold water to barely cover the fish.

Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and let the soup simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour. Do not stir the soup during this time, but occasionally shake the pot gently from side to side. At the end of 1 hour, taste and add more salt if desired.

Serve hot, dividing the fish evenly among shallow soup bowls for each diner.

Paprika Pork Chops

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My husband is an excellent cook of Hungarian foods. Following is his personal recipe for Paprika Pork Chops, a classic dish from Central Europe.

Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon mild Hungarian paprika

  • 1 tablespoon medium-hot Hungarian paprika

  • 4 pork chops (about 1/2-inch thick), trimmed of all fat

  • 2 tablespoons butter

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  • 2 medium onions, thinly sliced crosswise and separated into rings

  • 4 to 6 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

  • 3/4 cup medium-sweet to sweet Hungarian white wine

  • 2 tablespoons Hungarian apricot brandy (barackpálinka) or other brandy

  • 2 tablespoons pure sour cream (containing no additives)

  • Garnish: Strips of pickled mild red peppers

Instructions

Mix the paprikas together in a shallow bowl, spreading the powder evenly across the bottom of the bowl. Rinse the pork chops under cold water, then dredge both sides of each wet pork chop in the paprika, making sure the entire surface of both sides is covered with paprika.

Heat the butter and oil together over medium-high heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and sauté until they are soft.

Add the garlic and cook for an additional 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Push the onions and garlic to the side of the pan and add the pork chops in one layer. Brown the pork chops on both sides, about 4 minutes on each side. Add more cooking oil if necessary.

Stir in the wine and brandy. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet, and simmer the pork chops a minimum of 10 minutes on each side, depending on their thickness.

Remove the pork chops to a serving platter and keep them warm. Stir together the onions, garlic, and juices left in the pan. Increase the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the consistency of a thick soup. Reduce the heat and add the sour cream, mixing well. Pour this sauce over the pork chops and garnish with the pickled pepper strips.

Serve hot, accompanied by egg noodles or boiled potatoes and a medium-dry Hungarian white wine.

 

Paprika Mushrooms

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In Hungary, this dish is served over toasted bread or rolls, or accompanied by dumplings or plain rice. It can also be a rich side dish to accompany roasted chicken or pork. To save preparation time, slice the mushrooms with an egg slicer.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup (8 tablespoons) butter or lard

  • 2 medium onions, chopped

  • 1 pound fresh mushrooms (champignons, or a mixture of several kinds of mushrooms), cleaned and thinly sliced

  • 1 large garlic clove, minced

  • 1 rounded tablespoon Hungarian mild or medium-hot paprika

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1 cup pure sour cream (containing no additives)

Instructions

Melt the butter or lard in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté until they are translucent. Add the mushrooms and garlic, stirring until they are well-coated with the melted fat.

Reduce the heat to very low, sprinkle the paprika over the ingredients in the skillet, and stir to mix well. Increase the heat to medium and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover the skillet and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms begin to turn soft.

Stir in the salt and sour cream. Cook, stirring constantly, over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes longer, just until the sour cream is warm. Do not let the mixture boil.

Serve immediately.

 

Basic Fish Brine

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The most basic brine consists of water and kosher salt, but because the salt solution is absorbed into the fish, it can also be used to carry other flavors with it to enhance the smoked fish. This recipe works well for any fish fillet or whole fish that will be hot-smoked.

Ingredients

  • 2 quarts water, divided

  • 1 cup granulated sugar

  • 3/4 cup coarse kosher salt

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons crushed black pepper

  • 1 teaspoon granulated garlic

  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

  • 1/4 cup dark brown sugar

  • 4 bay leaves

Instructions

In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, bring one quart of water to a low simmer. Add remaining ingredients, except water, and simmer until salt and sugar dissolve. Remove from heat and add remaining cold water.

Refrigerate the brine until it cools to below 40°F. Add the fish, weighing it down with a reusable ice pack if necessary, and brine, refrigerated, for the appropriate length of time.

Planked Trout with Cayenne and Herbs

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This is a fun recipe for the summer and one that actually requires a wood or charcoal fire because it’s almost impossible with a gas fire. Just remember to remove the nails before serving.

Ingredients

  • 2 large trout fillets or half trouts with skin, boned

  • Olive oil

  • 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper

  • 1 teaspoon cayenne powder

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1 teaspoon each fresh herbs such as rosemary, marjoram, and thyme)

Instructions

Choose two thick, non-resinous planks—no pine. Soak the planks in water for at least 1 hour.

Build fire of wood or charcoal in front of a rock or sand pile to reflect heat towards the fish. Let it burn down to hot coals. Pile the coals in front of the rock, or move them to one side of the kettle grill.

Mix together the pepper, cay-enne, salt, and herbs in a bowl. Center the fillets on the planks, skin side down. Drive a few nails part way into each fillet to hold it in place. Brush with oil and then sprinkle with the cayenne and herb mixture. Cover the ends of boards with foil to catch drippings and to keep boards clean. Stand the planked fish at an angle in front of fire, tail end down. Rotate the plank to provide even cooking. Cook until fish flakes in thickest part, about 20 minutes.

To serve, remove the nails.